Many months ago, we discussed the challenges that churches go through when moving from temporary facilities to permanent locations. This is typically a challenge, both in adjusting operational methods and taking equipment out of road cases and bolting it down (or hanging it up) properly, safely and efficiently. I'd like to take one look even further back and see how we got the gear going in the first place. I've recently been asked to provide designs and quotes for several churches that are just starting out and require system mobility. The general requirements are typical:
• High portability (one van)
• Fast and simple setup (three volunteer techs in 30 minutes)
• Professional quality sound for about 500 people (101dB at the back)
• Minimum of four channels of personal monitors
• Minimum of two channels for stage wedge monitors
• Minimum of four channels wireless mics (one lavalier)
• Minimum of 24 channels of mix w/eight subgroups
• Minimum four channels of comp/limiter
• One basic reverb/effects unit
• One gaggle of mics, stands, direct boxes and mic cables
In most cases, budgets were tight, but not completely unrealistic–maybe a maximum of $20,000 delivered and ready to go.
Speakers are always where the electricity meets the air, and you should never compromise any more than what you absolutely have to there. I was never a big fan of molded boxes, but I must admit that there are a few substantially good models available that provide excellent tonal quality, portability and the ease of powered speakers. They also provide something that looks good once you wipe it with a damp rag.
Having said that, I still prefer the sound of a quality wood enclosure, but you will have to listen to several speaker types to make your own decision. If you are thinking about installing the boxes permanently within a year or two, spend a little more and get speakers with real flyware that are designed to do so.
Notice how I mentioned powered speakers. I have my preferences for permanent installation, but for portability, powered is the way to go. Typically, you'll eliminate cabling, save weight, simplify setup and save time.
In the meantime, you will have to carry the darn things, so plan to have dollies or hand trucks. If you must have subwoofers (and you should), try to resist bolting cheap casters directly to the cabinets. This will eventually tear up the integrity of the framing, and you'll go nuts chasing rattles while the worship team plays.
Think creatively, and either way, you could easily expect to get five to 10 years out of a decent speaker with no problems (much more if you pamper them).
Racks–do not skimp too much here. Good casters and overall construction will last a couple decades, if the racks don't fall off the truck! If your ins and outs are simple and driving distances are short, don't worry too much about vibration isolation–although those racks are infinitely better, they will be slightly larger and much more expensive. I also suggest using several different racks instead of trying to stuff every last bit of gear into one or two 24-space units. If you think it through, you'll get good storage and portability in four smaller units that the volunteers can muscle around much more safely when needed, and stack them up to create a well-positioned mix height. Break down your racks logically by equipment type and purpose, maybe one for wireless and mic storage and one for FOH effects. This will also keep your interconnect cables simple.
Everyone has their preferences for mix consoles, but this piece of equipment is basically the hub through which everything passes on its way to live output and recording. Once you hear the difference between a $3,000 console and a $599 console, you will never go back to the bargain units. Typically, the better units are well worth the extra money, and with an overhaul every six to 10 years, will outlast their cheapie counterparts.
Road cases for your console can be simple enough, but my experience is that spending an extra $50 to $100 for a "doghouse" lets you leave the pigtail of your main snake patched in and stored in the case. This simplifies (and speeds up) setup time for the typical volunteer, and saves a lot of wear and tear on connectors as well. If you plan it out well, you'll never have to do anything but set the console case in position, pop off the top lid and make one main connection. Don't settle for something that doesn't fit right–you need your console to work every time!
Unless you have an enormous 48-channel console, avoid wheels on the case. Use a dolly if you must for rolling down the hallway, but side or end casters mean that the console always seems to get rolled into storage and left just waiting to be tipped over. It happens all the time.
Bargain hunt for utility cases if you must, but be sure to get some at some point. You will have extension cables, snakes and stuff you never thought of! Again, get several smaller units that can be moved by an enthusiastic (but small) volunteer if needed.
And here's a hint: Labeling cases plainly will also take the stress out of those early Sunday mornings. And the bigger the casters, the better!
Pack it right, pack it light and get it moving.
